OT it looks like two outlets in one of my rooms arent grounded

[griffin8r]

It's a big deal if you're intending to connect sensitive equipment to them.

As to how expensive it is to fix? Shouldn't be that bad. Electrician kills power to that room, pulls the outlets out of the wall, ties 10-2 to the old 10-1 wire, pulls it through to the fuse box (hopefully it wasn't stapled to the wall studs) and wires it up. He puts in new outlets on the other end and bam, he's done. For 6 outlets, depending on situation variables, you're looking at a day or two worth of work.

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

It's a big deal if you're intending to connect sensitive equipment to them.

As to how expensive it is to fix? Shouldn't be that bad. Electrician kills power to that room, pulls the outlets out of the wall, ties 10-2 to the old 10-1 wire, pulls it through to the fuse box (hopefully it wasn't stapled to the wall studs) and wires it up. He puts in new outlets on the other end and bam, he's done. For 6 outlets, depending on situation variables, you're looking at a day or two worth of work.

10-2?
What are you planning on powering there? An electric dryer?
#10 wire-30 amps
#12 wire-20 amps
#14 wire-15 amps.....

And he probably already has 12-2.

No ground is bad. But not the end of the world. Unless you are coming from a sub-panel, the neutral (white) in the circuit is tied to the ground in the panel. Without a ground, you don't have a secondary path to ground to shunt naughty power surges that overload the capacitor in your power strip.

Add a level of protection by using a stand-by power supply/backup battery.
Let it isolate your equipment from the wall. Not perfect, but one step closer to protection. Not so much from losing power, but more importantly from isolating the power going directly to your equipment.

But if you got the bucks, have them run you a new line.

[griffin8r]

Originally Posted by EmporerEJ

10-2?
What are you planning on powering there? An electric dryer?
#10 wire-30 amps
#12 wire-20 amps
#14 wire-15 amps.....

Uh, 10-2 is a great choice when you're running every outlet in a room off one circuit.

And for the negligible difference in cost, it's better to over-wire than under.

And he probably already has 12-2.

Depends on how old the wiring is.

No ground is bad. But not the end of the world. Unless you are coming from a sub-panel, the neutral (white) in the circuit is tied to the ground in the panel. Without a ground, you don't have a secondary path to ground to shunt naughty power surges that overload the capacitor in your power strip.

Add a level of protection by using a stand-by power supply/backup battery.
Let it isolate your equipment from the wall. Not perfect, but one step closer to protection. Not so much from losing power, but more importantly from isolating the power going directly to your equipment.

You do realize that a UPS system will still be vulnerable and is likely to blow on an ungrounded supply line? Using a UPS as a solution here is throwing away money, IMNSHO.

But if you got the bucks, have them run you a new line.

Frankly, it's worth running the new line anyway.By the time you get done replacing 4-5 UPS's and/or surge suppressors, you'll be sick of the aggravation and you'll be out all that extra money, and still won't have clean power.

With no ground, even the tiniest fluctuations become as bad as major electrical storms.

Pay now, or pay later....

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

Uh, 10-2 is a great choice when you're running every outlet in a room off one circuit.

And for the negligible difference in cost, it's better to over-wire than under.

Depends on how old the wiring is.

You do realize that a UPS system will still be vulnerable and is likely to blow on an ungrounded supply line? Using a UPS as a solution here is throwing away money, IMNSHO.

Frankly, it's worth running the new line anyway.By the time you get done replacing 4-5 UPS's and/or surge suppressors, you'll be sick of the aggravation and you'll be out all that extra money, and still won't have clean power.

With no ground, even the tiniest fluctuations become as bad as major electrical storms.

Pay now, or pay later....

I reckon we may as well argue about this as anything else.....
:-)

While you're running that 10-2?
What's the plan? 20 amp breaker? 30 amp breaker?
What about the outlets themselves?
Planning on passing an inspection at any point?
Or heavens forbid you have a fire, and the fire inspector, insurance adjuster sees a recent change, with a 30 amp breaker, and 15/20 amp outlets that melted and caused the fire?


A proper, isolating UPS will SAVE your PC by isolating the power from the line, and adding/subtracting to give an even 115VAC at all times.
It's the fluctuations that cause the problems....not the redundant ground.
The ground is useless, unless you lose the neutral. Sure, a proper "surge protector" may need to shunt some extra voltage spike to ground, but you're talking about trusting your equipment to a 20 cent capacitor?

No, a proper line conditioning UPS is BY FAR your best choice here.
Not about the battery backup....just about balancing the line.

And even 1-20 amp line will run an awful lot of computer equipment......

[tony404]

Originally Posted by EmporerEJ

I reckon we may as well argue about this as anything else.....
:-)

While you're running that 10-2?
What's the plan? 20 amp breaker? 30 amp breaker?
What about the outlets themselves?
Planning on passing an inspection at any point?
Or heavens forbid you have a fire, and the fire inspector, insurance adjuster sees a recent change, with a 30 amp breaker, and 15/20 amp outlets that melted and caused the fire?


A proper, isolating UPS will SAVE your PC by isolating the power from the line, and adding/subtracting to give an even 115VAC at all times.
It's the fluctuations that cause the problems....not the redundant ground.
The ground is useless, unless you lose the neutral. Sure, a proper "surge protector" may need to shunt some extra voltage spike to ground, but you're talking about trusting your equipment to a 20 cent capacitor?

No, a proper line conditioning UPS is BY FAR your best choice here.
Not about the battery backup....just about balancing the line.

And even 1-20 amp line will run an awful lot of computer equipment......

The only thing using juice in this room are lights and flashes now and then.

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by tony404

The only thing using juice in this room are lights and flashes now and then.

Have you put a line monitor on your service at all?
To find out what the fluctuations are?

[griffin8r]

Originally Posted by EmporerEJ

I reckon we may as well argue about this as anything else.....
:-)

While you're running that 10-2?
What's the plan? 20 amp breaker? 30 amp breaker?
What about the outlets themselves?
Planning on passing an inspection at any point?
Or heavens forbid you have a fire, and the fire inspector, insurance adjuster sees a recent change, with a 30 amp breaker, and 15/20 amp outlets that melted and caused the fire?

Well, I'm not much for arguing about petty stuff, but...

1) No reason to go over 15 amps on the breaker. We're not running industrial equipment here...

2) The outlets themselves? I'd use 15's with internal breakers. Won't have to worry about a fire if the plug itself won't overload.

A proper, isolating UPS will SAVE your PC by isolating the power from the line, and adding/subtracting to give an even 115VAC at all times.
It's the fluctuations that cause the problems....not the redundant ground.
The ground is useless, unless you lose the neutral. Sure, a proper "surge protector" may need to shunt some extra voltage spike to ground, but you're talking about trusting your equipment to a 20 cent capacitor?

No, a proper line conditioning UPS is BY FAR your best choice here.
Not about the battery backup....just about balancing the line.

You missed my entire point. Those UPS's still have 20 cent capacitors in them that blow when they've reached a surge load limit. Operating one on an ungrounded (which is what the OP stated) outlet will hasten its demise. Of course it'll protect your equipment, but you'll be buying new ones every six months because you still have no neutral on your circuit.

[Toby]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

...Those UPS's still have 20 cent capacitors in them that blow when they've reached a surge load limit. Operating one on an ungrounded (which is what the OP stated) outlet will hasten its demise. Of course it'll protect your equipment, but you'll be buying new ones every six months because you still have no neutral on your circuit.

That's simply not the case in my experience. This entire house does not have grounded outlets. I've been using an APC ES 350 UPS that is now almost three years old and still functioning just fine.

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

Well, I'm not much for arguing about petty stuff, but...

1) No reason to go over 15 amps on the breaker. We're not running industrial equipment here...

2) The outlets themselves? I'd use 15's with internal breakers. Won't have to worry about a fire if the plug itself won't overload.



You missed my entire point. Those UPS's still have 20 cent capacitors in them that blow when they've reached a surge load limit. Operating one on an ungrounded (which is what the OP stated) outlet will hasten its demise. Of course it'll protect your equipment, but you'll be buying new ones every six months because you still have no neutral on your circuit.

Again, running 10-2 and hanging 15 amp outlets on the wire?
You can't use the backwire slots, (Which I wouldn't recommend anyhow,)
and you will have trouble physically putting that wire under the screw.
So, what's the point? And the cost is NOT insignificant. 10-2 approaches double in price to 14-2, which is what you would HAVE to use, minimum, for a 15 amp circuit. And I'm a bit fuzzy on the "breakers inside them." Do you mean Ground fault receptacles? Here's a shocker for you......you can make a ground fault outlet work, even in an outlet without a ground wire.
So that's no safety factor in this situation. In fact, that could bite you in the ass on a fault. If you had a surge, that tripped the ground fault, it's possible that power would have nowhere to go for a split second as the neutral snapped off. Bad news for the next best grounded thing close to the hot wire.
(Extreme example)

Now, your talk about the UPS is Simply wrong. A proper UPS Does NOT use a 20 cent cap. a Proper UPS line conditioner ISOLATES the output power through a transformer, and modulating circuit. There is NO physical electrical connection between your equipment, and the wall power. There is an air gap in the power transformer isolating it. The circuit then monitors and shunts the excess power, using the batteries as a part of the circuit, as well as many caps, voltage regulator, and assorted other components. Your statement regarding failure causes is completely wrong, and I would challenge you to find any support for that, even in theory. The weak part of a UPS is always the batteries, which have X life span, regardless. Theoretically, a bad AC power supply system, that would draw/charge cycle the batteries regularly would actually improve their life span. It simply the battery life cycle works. The bad thing is keeping the batteries peak charged endlessly. (Again, a better UPS that "conditions" the batteries would be an improvement)
Wanna see a schematic?

This is unlike a "surge protector strip," which still has a physical hard wire to hard wire connection from equipment to the wall. The cap in there is used merely as a tiny little dump reservoir for slight over/under power surges. Really, quite useless, considering how much faith people put in them.

A UPS is just a no brainer, if you make your living from that equipment. A very inexpensive insurance policy. More so from the power management, rather than the "hours of backup" specifications of the UPS.

[griffin8r]

Originally Posted by EmporerEJ

Now, your talk about the UPS is Simply wrong. A proper UPS Does NOT use a 20 cent cap. a Proper UPS line conditioner ISOLATES the output power through a transformer, and modulating circuit. There is NO physical electrical connection between your equipment, and the wall power.

We're still talking past each other here. I'm saying most UPS systems have a MOV-based surge suppression system. Yes, it's true, the equipment stays protected, because the equipment is isolated from the wall by the power supply system, but the power supply system's protection from surge is still a varistor with a limited joule rating, and when that varistor hits its lifetime max, your UPS is toast. Not your equipment, but the UPS itself.